When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.
This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.
“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.
However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.
A seasoned journalist with a passion for uncovering stories that matter in the Czech Republic and beyond.
